Roberto Voerzio is one of the stars of Piedmont, famous for his stunning Barolos, which are now ‘cult’ wines. He’s a modernist to the extent that he steers clear of the traditional tannic style, but while his wines show good ripeness and he uses new barrels, they’re not over-extracted and oaky. Because there’s an eager market for Barolo, and good Barolos are never cheap, unsurprisingly Voerzio’s top wines are trophy items priced out of the range of mere mortals like me.